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Jack Martin

Colourist based in the Golden State who excels at grey hair. His clients include Hollywood stars and well-known figures.

What affordable item can't you live without?

I highly recommend a microfibre towel, or even a soft cotton T-shirt to remove moisture from your strands. Many are unaware how much harm a regular bath towel can do, particularly for silver or chemically treated hair. This minor adjustment can really minimize flyaways and damage. Another inexpensive must-have is a large-gap comb, to use in the shower. It safeguards your strands while smoothing out tangles and helps preserve the strength of the strands, especially after lightening.

Which investment truly pays off?

A high-quality styling iron – ceramic or tourmaline, with smart temperature control. Grey and blonde hair can yellow or burn easily without the correct device.

What style or process should you always avoid?

At-home lightening. Internet videos often simplify it, but the actual fact is it’s one of the most hazardous actions you can do to your hair. There are cases where individuals cause irreversible harm, break it off or end up with bands of colour that are nearly impossible to correct. I also don’t recommend long-term smoothing services on color-treated or grey hair. Such treatments are often excessively strong for weakened hair and can cause long-term damage or color changes.

What’s the most common mistake you see in your salon?

People using the wrong products for their hair type or colour. A number of people misuse violet-based cleansers until their blonde or grey strands looks drab and lacking shine. A few overdo on strengthening conditioners and end up with unmanageable, weak locks. Another significant problem is using hot tools sans safeguard. When applying styling appliances without a defensive spray or cream, – especially on pre-lightened hair – you’re going to see yellowing, dryness and breakage.

What would you suggest for thinning hair?

Thinning requires a comprehensive strategy. Externally, minoxidil remains a top choice. I also recommend follicle treatments containing stimulants to boost blood flow and support follicle health. Applying a cleansing scalp wash often helps eliminate impurities and allows treatments to work more effectively. Internal support including clinical supplements have also shown great results. They enhance overall health for hair benefits by addressing hormonal imbalances, anxiety and lack of vital nutrients.

For those seeking higher-level solutions, platelet-rich plasma treatments – where a personalized serum is applied – can be successful. Still, my advice is to getting a professional diagnosis beforehand. Hair loss is often tied to underlying health issues, and it’s important to determine the origin rather than seeking quick fixes.

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A Trichology Expert

Scalp and Hair Scientist and head of a renowned clinic centers and lines targeting thinning.

What’s your routine for trims and color?

My trims are every couple of months, but will snip damaged ends myself fortnightly to preserve strand health, and have lightening sessions every eight weeks.

Which bargain product do you swear by?

Building fibers are truly impressive if you have see-through sections. They attach using static to your strands, and it comes in a range of colors, making it seamlessly blended. I used it myself in the postpartum period when I had noticeable thinning – and also now while experiencing some considerable hair loss after having a severe illness recently. Since hair is non-vital, it’s the first part of you to suffer when your intake is insufficient, so I would also recommend a healthy, varied eating plan.

Which product or treatment is worth splurging on?

If you have female pattern hair loss (FPHL), I’d say doctor-recommended solutions. When dealing with temporary hair loss, known as TE, buying an retail solution is fine, but for FPHL you really do need medicated treatment to see the best results. From my perspective, minoxidil combined with additional ingredients – such as balancing elements, inhibitors and/or calming components – works best.

Which hair trend or treatment would you never recommend?

Rosemary oil for hair loss. It doesn’t work. This belief comes from a minor study from 2015 that compared the effects of 2% minoxidil to rosemary oil. A 2% strength minoxidil isn’t enough to do much for genetic balding in men, so the study is basically saying they are equally minimal in effect.

Also, high-dose biotin. Rarely do people lack biotin, so consuming it probably won't help your locks, and it can skew thyroid readings in blood tests.

What’s the most common mistake you see?

I think the term “hair washing” should be changed to “scalp cleansing” – because the primary purpose of washing is to remove buildup, flakes, perspiration and dirt. I see people avoiding shampooing as they think it’s harmful to their strands, when in fact the reverse is correct – notably in cases of dandruff, which is worsened by the presence of excess oils. When sebum remains on the skin, they deteriorate and lead to inflammation.

Regrettably, follicular health and strand desires can differ, so it’s a careful compromise. But as long as you are gentle when you shampoo and handle wet hair with care, it won’t be damaging to your strands.

Which options help with shedding?

For genetic thinning in women, start with minoxidil. Scientific support is substantial and tends to be most effective combined with additional ingredients. If you then want to try other things to support minoxidil’s effect, or you prefer not to use it or are unable, you could try collagen induction therapy (with a specialist), and perhaps injections or laser devices.

For TE, you need to do some detective work. Increased hair loss often stems from an underlying issue. Occasionally, the reason is temporary – such as illness, infection or high stress – and it will improve spontaneously. Sometimes, hormonal problems or dietary gaps are responsible – the frequent culprits include iron stores, B12 and D insufficiency – and to {treat the hair loss you need to treat the cause|address shedding, target the underlying issue|combat thinning, focus